![]() ![]() About 1/2-day work with a saw, a drill and a file… I replaced it with a Cloudray C-series head, which demands a custom-made mounting plate. You can use it with the included lens (focal length 1.5") but that’s it - no longer lens is possible. I changed the laser head, because I could not find a source where to buy a compatible spare lens tube. You can live without it, but you should at least measure the laser current once at different SW settings to get a table linking the laser power setting in SW with actual laser current, so you don’t drive your tube beyond the maximum recommended limit (this shortens the live span of your tube dramatically - at least that’s what I read…) 5mm plywood is about the maximum which cuts in reasonable quality, without getting too much charred edges.Ī decent laser tube (most probably a RECI W2 - I heard only good things about them) is on my want-to-have-next-list on topmost position… And the gaussian distribution of the beam is very flat, so the penetration is not so great. With the “usual” 26mA maximum current it is more in the range of 70W. It is rated 80W, but only if driven beyond the maximum current (which they don’t tell you by the way). I removed all USB cables when I added the USB hub and got proper parts. I learned that these cables are hard to get so in case of a cable problem you can’t go to the next store to buy a replacement. They used an USB-A male plug, and delivered it with an USB-A to USB-A cable. Speaking about USB cables - you can see on the pictures, that the device should have an USB-B connector to the control PC - mine did not. ![]() I mounted an USB hub down there, so I have only one USB cable to my laptop (this is not strictly necessary, but my laptop is low on USB ports) The cable can be routed on the right side of the lid, down to the laser tube, there is an opening down to the compartment where all the controllers are located. Furthermore, it is small enough so that it does not collide with the laser head when the lid is closed. ![]() It mounts within two of the air holes on the lid, right underneath the handle (the ones I closed with blue tape) and works flawlessly with Lightburn. You could use the fan that comes with the kit, t sucks like hell, but it is also terrible loud.Ĭamera - If you are used to have a camera with your laser, you do not want to work without anymore. With a strong enough fan - and here is the answer to your actual question: I bought this one: - on maximum power you get a decent enough air flow to get most of the smoke out of the device before it condenses on the workpiece. I “optimized” airflow by closing all holes I could find with blue tape and leave the service cover on the right side permanently open. No plan for a decent air flow can be recognized. The fan is connected on the left side of the device and air is sucked in from every hole within the device. I ordered a steel (to continue using magnets to pin down my workpiece) honeycomb table from Asia after less than 6 weeks…Īir management is sub-optimal. Furthermore, there is no way the smoke can escape (from the workpiece you cut and the black paint) and therefore all the dirt condenses also on the workpiece which leaves these nasty brown marks. ![]() Working surface is a black painted metal sheet - which is not bad per se, but if you cut something the laser beam burns also the black paint and then gets reflected from the metal and burns your material from underneath. It needs “some love” until it is comfortable to work with:ĭespite the pictures, the device was delivered without a honeycomb table. Beeing my fist laser and only using it as a hobby device, I think its good for this price.īut be warned - you don’t get a plug and play device. I bought the 80W version from Vevor last october. ![]()
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